Today after breakfast in our shack in Clarksdale, we checked out of the Shack Up Inn. Bill gave us lavish parting gifts to remember our visit - as if we could forget!
Since rain was not forecast, we didn't start out with any rain gear for ourselves or our bags. About forty miles into our trip, dark clouds started to concern us so when we gassed up, we put the protective rain covers on our t-bags. Most of the day was overcast so it wasn't too hot for riding and we actually enjoyed the scenic country side around Oxford Mississippi and then on into southern Tennessee on our way to Jackson Tennessee. After a mediocre lunch we headed to our hotel in Paris. Just outside of Jackson, we felt the first couple of rain drops so we pulled into a gas station for cover under the canopy and suited up. In full rain gear, we continued on to Paris. By now the rain was constant and sometimes heavy. Occasionally we would pull into another gas station to wait out the very heavy rain. One gas station was in McKenzie Tennessee and was a full service station. The two owners (brothers) came out to service our vehicles and we told them we were taking advantage of the canopy. They stood and talked to us until we were ready to drive on. Apparently this part of Tennessee has been experiencing a drought. Once again, we go on vacation and end a drought. We think we should be paid to take vacations to drought areas. We could be the next "Rain Makers."
A ride from Jackson to Paris should have taken an hour. With stops and driving slow, it took us two hours.
Tonight we have a very nice Hampton Inn. The outdoor pool is very large and a reasonable temperature. We swam after a pizza from the parlor next door. The pizza is advertised as "Chicago Style" and lives up to its claim. We haven't had pizza this good since we moved away from Danville.
Tomorrow we head for Kentucky and will stay in Central City - home of the Everly Brothers.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Shacking up
This morning at breakfast, we met a man from Sarasota Florida riding an '07 H-D Road Glide. He and his riding buddy (a youngster of just 58) were getting ready to ride the Natchez Trace so we shared some of our experiences with him. This man was 81 and has put over 40,000 miles on his '07! I only wish we are still going as strong as him when we reach 71!
Our ride today wasn't that exciting. We crossed the Mississippi River into Louisiana and then rode up through Arkansas and then back into Mississippi; the only reason was so we could cross off those two states on our "must do as many states as possible on our motorcycles" list. Speaking of that list, we also have a "must do all the counties in Kentucky on our motorcycles" list. We will be crossing off six more of those counties before we get home.
Tonight we are staying in the Shack Up Inn in Clarksdale Mississippi. The shacks are old share cropper shacks, updated with indoor plumbing and room air conditioners. They are extremely tacky but that is part of the "charm." David was skeptical when I told him I was booking this place. Now he is considering one of his favorite places. There is no regular TV, just closed circuit Blues music channel and videos to borrow for the VCR. And neither the TV or the VCR have remotes!
Tonight we didn't want to saddle up on the bikes again but wanted to go into Clarksdale to see the "Crossroads." (FYI for all who know nothing about Blues Music - legend has it that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil at the crossroads of US 61 and US 49 in order to be able to play the guitar and thus the birth of a blues legend.) When we asked about the possibility of getting a taxi to take us into town (we are on a plantation about two miles out of town), the owner of this place said we probably couldn't get a taxi but he would loan us his '69 Cadillac Fleetwood. So we cruised into town in this boat of a car; rust, flaky "leather" top, and all. We had BBQ at Abe's which is actually located right at the crossroads. We then cruised through the downtown area to see the Blues Museum and the Riverside Motel where Bessie Smith died. Our last stop was Kroger to buy some snacks and stuff for breakfast as all good shacks have kitchens.
This is our Shack:
Our ride today wasn't that exciting. We crossed the Mississippi River into Louisiana and then rode up through Arkansas and then back into Mississippi; the only reason was so we could cross off those two states on our "must do as many states as possible on our motorcycles" list. Speaking of that list, we also have a "must do all the counties in Kentucky on our motorcycles" list. We will be crossing off six more of those counties before we get home.
Tonight we are staying in the Shack Up Inn in Clarksdale Mississippi. The shacks are old share cropper shacks, updated with indoor plumbing and room air conditioners. They are extremely tacky but that is part of the "charm." David was skeptical when I told him I was booking this place. Now he is considering one of his favorite places. There is no regular TV, just closed circuit Blues music channel and videos to borrow for the VCR. And neither the TV or the VCR have remotes!
Tonight we didn't want to saddle up on the bikes again but wanted to go into Clarksdale to see the "Crossroads." (FYI for all who know nothing about Blues Music - legend has it that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil at the crossroads of US 61 and US 49 in order to be able to play the guitar and thus the birth of a blues legend.) When we asked about the possibility of getting a taxi to take us into town (we are on a plantation about two miles out of town), the owner of this place said we probably couldn't get a taxi but he would loan us his '69 Cadillac Fleetwood. So we cruised into town in this boat of a car; rust, flaky "leather" top, and all. We had BBQ at Abe's which is actually located right at the crossroads. We then cruised through the downtown area to see the Blues Museum and the Riverside Motel where Bessie Smith died. Our last stop was Kroger to buy some snacks and stuff for breakfast as all good shacks have kitchens.
This is our Shack:
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Natchez - Day 2
Well, there is a down side to pre-planning a trip. We both agree if we had known how wonderful and beautiful Natchez was, we would have opted to stay at least three days instead of the two we had planned.
Natchez is not a large city by any measure. The census numbers I have seen show it less than 20,000. There are highways that go around the city so you can get from one end to the other in way under 1/2 hour. The downtown area where our hotel is located is very well preserved. There are still old buildings dating back to the early to mid 1800's with some buildings being restored. Our hotel is brand new as is the Convention Center directly behind our hotel but they were both built to blend in with the old.
This morning we rode out and explored the city and did a little shopping before it became unbearably hot. We also toured the visitors center and watched a documentary about Natchez. After that it was time for lunch. I had read about Natchez Under the Hill and we went there. Along with just a few shops (I thought there would be more) is a gambling river boat. We had lunch there - an all you can eat buffet for $7.50.
This was also a scheduled laundry day so this afternoon between swims in the hotel pool and a trip over to a gift shop, I managed to get all our clothes clean. Traveling via motorcycles, you plan for a laundry day so you don't have to pack enough clothes for two weeks.
Tonight we went to "Biscuits and Blues", a little bar/restaurant in downtown and only three blocks from here. I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but it was really good. We had appetizer sampler of mushrooms, onion rings, and crab cakes. David had BBQ combo of ribs and chicken and I had a spinach salad with oysters on top. The atmosphere was "bluesy" - just what we were hoping for with a name like "Biscuits and Blues". By the way they also serve biscuits - almost a shortbread type and with peach butter for the spread. Yummy. After we returned to our hotel, we went out by the river to watch the sunset over the Mississippi.
Tomorrow we start back north. Our next stop will be Clarksdale Mississippi and the Shack Up Inn.
Natchez is not a large city by any measure. The census numbers I have seen show it less than 20,000. There are highways that go around the city so you can get from one end to the other in way under 1/2 hour. The downtown area where our hotel is located is very well preserved. There are still old buildings dating back to the early to mid 1800's with some buildings being restored. Our hotel is brand new as is the Convention Center directly behind our hotel but they were both built to blend in with the old.
This morning we rode out and explored the city and did a little shopping before it became unbearably hot. We also toured the visitors center and watched a documentary about Natchez. After that it was time for lunch. I had read about Natchez Under the Hill and we went there. Along with just a few shops (I thought there would be more) is a gambling river boat. We had lunch there - an all you can eat buffet for $7.50.
This was also a scheduled laundry day so this afternoon between swims in the hotel pool and a trip over to a gift shop, I managed to get all our clothes clean. Traveling via motorcycles, you plan for a laundry day so you don't have to pack enough clothes for two weeks.
Tonight we went to "Biscuits and Blues", a little bar/restaurant in downtown and only three blocks from here. I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but it was really good. We had appetizer sampler of mushrooms, onion rings, and crab cakes. David had BBQ combo of ribs and chicken and I had a spinach salad with oysters on top. The atmosphere was "bluesy" - just what we were hoping for with a name like "Biscuits and Blues". By the way they also serve biscuits - almost a shortbread type and with peach butter for the spread. Yummy. After we returned to our hotel, we went out by the river to watch the sunset over the Mississippi.
Tomorrow we start back north. Our next stop will be Clarksdale Mississippi and the Shack Up Inn.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Natchez Mississippi
This evening we are in Natchez Mississippi. We rode the 444 mile length of the Natchez Trace Parkway except for those two small detours the first day. It was very beautiful, scenic, and educational. All along the Trace the people we met all seemed to think that their portion of the Trace was the most beautiful. I liked that. My only complaint is because we were on motorcycles and could not constantly refer to a map, the "Historical Site in 1/2 mile" signs were not a lot of help. We didn't know what the site was going to be until we were right up on it. Even only going 50 miles per hour, you can't make the turn by the time you see the sign.
On our way to Natchez today we stopped in Raymond MS, a little town south of Jackson, for gas. We asked for a place for lunch and were directed to "Potter's Kitchen on the Square." We each got the special - our choice of meat (fried chicken or casserole), three sides, drinks, bread, and dessert. We didn't even ask how much because it sounded so good. It was. It was real down home cooking; everything flavored just right. They even topped off our cooler with ice. Our tab for the lunch was just at $20. I also told them I would write a good review for them.
Our hotel in Natchez is a Country Inn & Suites, right downtown, right on the Mississippi River. I requested a river view room, of course. It is a suite, separate sitting room from the king bed and very large bathroom. We took a swim shortly after arriving. The pool is outside and small but a very pleasant temperature. I really don't think I will have any complaints about this place when it comes time to post my reviews.
Tonight we went out for a short walk to a BBQ place and then a walk along the river back to the hotel. Tomorrow we plan to do a little more exploring in Natchez and have already staked out more restaurants than we have meals left here!
On our way to Natchez today we stopped in Raymond MS, a little town south of Jackson, for gas. We asked for a place for lunch and were directed to "Potter's Kitchen on the Square." We each got the special - our choice of meat (fried chicken or casserole), three sides, drinks, bread, and dessert. We didn't even ask how much because it sounded so good. It was. It was real down home cooking; everything flavored just right. They even topped off our cooler with ice. Our tab for the lunch was just at $20. I also told them I would write a good review for them.
Our hotel in Natchez is a Country Inn & Suites, right downtown, right on the Mississippi River. I requested a river view room, of course. It is a suite, separate sitting room from the king bed and very large bathroom. We took a swim shortly after arriving. The pool is outside and small but a very pleasant temperature. I really don't think I will have any complaints about this place when it comes time to post my reviews.
Tonight we went out for a short walk to a BBQ place and then a walk along the river back to the hotel. Tomorrow we plan to do a little more exploring in Natchez and have already staked out more restaurants than we have meals left here!
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Oh Bouy, What a Day! Where is the Lighthouse?
We had a minimalist breakfast at the Belmont Hotel. I actually was disappointed with my decision for this stop but we did experience small town Mississippi.
Some people were hesitant to engage in much conversation while others couldn't seem to stop talking. The kids that were running the Subway where we hung out last night were of the latter variety. At the gas station this morning, we met another such couple. They were locals and were also on a motorcycle. They told us the ride to Tupelo on Natchez Trace was the prettiest part of the Trace. I'm sure they were somewhat biased but it was indeed very pretty.
When we stopped at a Indian Burial Mound site, I asked a park ranger about the condition of the road and she assured me it was good all the way to the Natchez Trace Headquarters and Visitors Center in Tupelo. So back on the Trace and the road was good; newly paved and smooth right up to the Visitors Center. There we watched a short video on the history of the Trace and viewed the exhibits. There were two park rangers; both college kids. We spent maybe a half an hour talking with them. When David said something about accents, the girl said (in a full southern drawl), "I don't have an accent but my mama does." We asked the rangers about the repaving of the Trace and the girl said she was from Houston MS and drove the Trace to work every day and "it isn't very bad." I told her we were on bikes and it had to be not bad at all. She insisted it wasn't. I also mentioned that Houston was a scheduled gas stop for us and then David asked if there were any good places to eat. She drew us a map. Unfortunately, not to scale and her estimate of mileage was way off. When we got to Houston (over very GOOD pavement), we couldn't find the recommended restaurant and ended up way past the city limits looking for it. We turned around and went back into town where we finally found it - closed. McDonald's was our lunch choice today. We then gassed up the bikes and got back on the Trace.
This was the first time for me to lead as David had been leading to keep our speed under control. Not too long after we returned to the Trace, the skies opened up - BIG time. (Later that night on the news we heard "thunderstorms and blinding rain with some areas getting three inches or more in two hours; other areas getting five inches.") The last thing I heard David say was "Don't stop too fast, I don't want to run into you." I put on my four-way flashers and slowed down to find a turn off. There were no turn offs to be had. Before the deluge, there where "Historical Markers" every few miles. Now we couldn't find one! After several miles, I realize I haven't heard from David in a while. I started calling for him on the radio; no response. I finally find a place to pull over and continue to call. In the meantime, David is trying to contact me. He has even told a couple on a motorcycle to be on the lookout for me. I start to panic. David starts to panic. We both are driving up and down the Trace calling over the radio to each other, neither one of us can hear the other, and (YIKES) even looking in ditches. I finally find another turn off and pull over. In just a matter of minutes, I see David coming towards me and he takes the same turn off but (picture it like exit ramps) the other part of the exit triangle. I start calling for him and honking my horn. I assume he hears me and is turning around to join me. In the meantime, I hear him calling me. I answer but it is obvious he can't hear me. So I wait for him to get turned around, still assuming he saw me and that is why he took the exit. When David got off his bike at the end of the ramp, for some reason, he turned on his speakers rather than his headset and that is the first time he was able to hear me. We got together at the bottom of that ramp and hugged and kissed, sopping wet, rain still beating down on us. We had been separated for at least 45 minutes, maybe an hour, and we were just so so very happy to see each other again. We waited out the rain for a little longer and then started back out. The rain was still coming down but not so hard we couldn't see. About 20 miles later, we pulled off and dried off a little and then continued on to our hotel.
We were still really wet when we got here to Kosciusko MS. The hotel here is not fancy but they are the nicest people. We have real internet and a decent, although outside, pool where we took a swim - that after swimming down the Trace just a few hours earlier. The desk clerk is very thoughtful; she even suggested we pull our bikes up onto the sidewalk and under the overhangs just in case it starts to rain during the night.
Tomorrow we are hoping for less adventure as we finish the Trace in Natchez MS.
Some people were hesitant to engage in much conversation while others couldn't seem to stop talking. The kids that were running the Subway where we hung out last night were of the latter variety. At the gas station this morning, we met another such couple. They were locals and were also on a motorcycle. They told us the ride to Tupelo on Natchez Trace was the prettiest part of the Trace. I'm sure they were somewhat biased but it was indeed very pretty.
When we stopped at a Indian Burial Mound site, I asked a park ranger about the condition of the road and she assured me it was good all the way to the Natchez Trace Headquarters and Visitors Center in Tupelo. So back on the Trace and the road was good; newly paved and smooth right up to the Visitors Center. There we watched a short video on the history of the Trace and viewed the exhibits. There were two park rangers; both college kids. We spent maybe a half an hour talking with them. When David said something about accents, the girl said (in a full southern drawl), "I don't have an accent but my mama does." We asked the rangers about the repaving of the Trace and the girl said she was from Houston MS and drove the Trace to work every day and "it isn't very bad." I told her we were on bikes and it had to be not bad at all. She insisted it wasn't. I also mentioned that Houston was a scheduled gas stop for us and then David asked if there were any good places to eat. She drew us a map. Unfortunately, not to scale and her estimate of mileage was way off. When we got to Houston (over very GOOD pavement), we couldn't find the recommended restaurant and ended up way past the city limits looking for it. We turned around and went back into town where we finally found it - closed. McDonald's was our lunch choice today. We then gassed up the bikes and got back on the Trace.
This was the first time for me to lead as David had been leading to keep our speed under control. Not too long after we returned to the Trace, the skies opened up - BIG time. (Later that night on the news we heard "thunderstorms and blinding rain with some areas getting three inches or more in two hours; other areas getting five inches.") The last thing I heard David say was "Don't stop too fast, I don't want to run into you." I put on my four-way flashers and slowed down to find a turn off. There were no turn offs to be had. Before the deluge, there where "Historical Markers" every few miles. Now we couldn't find one! After several miles, I realize I haven't heard from David in a while. I started calling for him on the radio; no response. I finally find a place to pull over and continue to call. In the meantime, David is trying to contact me. He has even told a couple on a motorcycle to be on the lookout for me. I start to panic. David starts to panic. We both are driving up and down the Trace calling over the radio to each other, neither one of us can hear the other, and (YIKES) even looking in ditches. I finally find another turn off and pull over. In just a matter of minutes, I see David coming towards me and he takes the same turn off but (picture it like exit ramps) the other part of the exit triangle. I start calling for him and honking my horn. I assume he hears me and is turning around to join me. In the meantime, I hear him calling me. I answer but it is obvious he can't hear me. So I wait for him to get turned around, still assuming he saw me and that is why he took the exit. When David got off his bike at the end of the ramp, for some reason, he turned on his speakers rather than his headset and that is the first time he was able to hear me. We got together at the bottom of that ramp and hugged and kissed, sopping wet, rain still beating down on us. We had been separated for at least 45 minutes, maybe an hour, and we were just so so very happy to see each other again. We waited out the rain for a little longer and then started back out. The rain was still coming down but not so hard we couldn't see. About 20 miles later, we pulled off and dried off a little and then continued on to our hotel.
We were still really wet when we got here to Kosciusko MS. The hotel here is not fancy but they are the nicest people. We have real internet and a decent, although outside, pool where we took a swim - that after swimming down the Trace just a few hours earlier. The desk clerk is very thoughtful; she even suggested we pull our bikes up onto the sidewalk and under the overhangs just in case it starts to rain during the night.
Tomorrow we are hoping for less adventure as we finish the Trace in Natchez MS.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
First Day on the Natchez Trace Parkway
After a relaxing breakfast the hotel, we loaded up the bikes and headed for the northern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway. If you haven't been on the Natchez Trace before, let me say it is a beautiful as everyone says. In the beginning it is gentle inclines and descents with wide sweeping curves; not a challenge to ride at all so all you have to do is just enjoy the scenery and history. The only really hard parts of the ride is deciding which sites to stop at and keeping your speed under control. I kept us pretty much on track by deciding which sites to see; David kept our speed at the posted limit.
We stopped at the entrance sign for the Trace and fellow bikers took our picture and we took theirs. We stopped at a couple of overlooks. And we stopped at the Meriwether Lewis site where he met his untimely death (suicide or murder - it is still debatable). We exited the Trace for gas and a bite of lunch at Collinwood Tennessee where the gas station is also the only restaurant in town. We had a very nice lunch and asked some locals about the upcoming detours on the Trace.
There were two detours for bridge replacement. Neither detour was very long and we were back on the Trace in a matter of minutes. One of our last stops of the day was immediately after crossing the Tennessee River in Alabama. We stopped at the site of Colbert's Ferry and were able to take pictures back at the bridge we just crossed. (I did snap a few as we were crossing.)
Our hotel is a Bed & Breakfast in Belmont Mississippi. The hotel dates from 1924 and is furnished with period furniture. I asked when booking about air-conditioning and private baths - so we are okay. Unfortunately, it doesn't even come close to having internet so we are at the local Subway for a WiFi connection.
Tomorrow we visit Tupelo. We will probably take the back way as Tupelo is only 40 miles away. As we near Tupelo, we will need to exit the Trace as it is being resurfaced. The road report calls for 36 miles of milled surface roads and neither one of us is a big fan on driving on milled surfaced roads.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Sometimes Lazy is Good
We celebrated the Fourth our own way - we were lazy. Originally we had planned to do some site seeing in Nashville. That was before we found the forecast to be almost a guarantee of rain. We hung out at the hotel but didn't attempt the pool again. Around noon we did go cruising for lunch. We walked past a Greek restaurant yesterday and had plans to go there today. They were closed for the Fourth. So we went to a grocery store that had a Red Box rental to get movies. While at the grocery, we picked up a few snacks and drinks then noticed they had a good deli so we ate at the grocery store. Do we know how to live or what? After an afternoon of watching movies, we ordered Papa John's Pizza for delivery and covered our bikes for the evening. Nashville has fireworks for the Fourth and our hotel sits on a large hill that overlooks the city. We are hoping to be able to see some of the fireworks if we can stay up late enough. ☺
One bit of good news is I finally heard from the Bed & Breakfast we have scheduled for tomorrow night. I'm glad; I hate changing perfectly good plans.
ADDENDUM: We just came in from watching fireworks from the front lawn of our hotel. Just as I expected, the height of this hill and position south of the city gave us a good vantage point for the fireworks. We were treated to a panorama of explosions not only from the north but the east and northeast as well. It seems everyone around had a display and we could see them all. We spent about an hour outside and got a few bug bites but David and I agree, it was probably the most fireworks we have ever seen in one place.
One bit of good news is I finally heard from the Bed & Breakfast we have scheduled for tomorrow night. I'm glad; I hate changing perfectly good plans.
ADDENDUM: We just came in from watching fireworks from the front lawn of our hotel. Just as I expected, the height of this hill and position south of the city gave us a good vantage point for the fireworks. We were treated to a panorama of explosions not only from the north but the east and northeast as well. It seems everyone around had a display and we could see them all. We spent about an hour outside and got a few bug bites but David and I agree, it was probably the most fireworks we have ever seen in one place.
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